Nearby Hotspots
The Monastery of Agia Triada Zangarolon has an imposing entrance to it, surrounded by a fertile plain of olive trees and vines. The monastery is impressive in both size and appearance. It was built in 1612 by the monks Laurence and Jeremiah, who belonged to the Greek Orthodox Venetian family of the Tsangaroli, of Cretan descent, which gave its name to the monastery. The church of the monastery dates from 1634 has a cruciform shape with a dome and an impressive façade. The high and splendid bell-tower was built in 1864. During the Greek War of Independence of 1821 the Turks burned the monastery, and it lay in ruins for many years before being restored by the local monks. The monastery has a worthwhile museum and a large collection of Byzantine icons one, which dates from the 19th century.
The Monastery of Our Lady of the Angels or Gouvernetou is another of the oldest monasteries on Crete possibly dating back to 1537. It was most probably founded in the 11th century when the old main church was abandoned. It has a poor track; however, it is well worth taking the trouble to drive along it, as it leads to a monument of great historical interest on a site that will fascinate nature-lovers.
The monastery stands at a height of 260 metres; the church is rectangular, with a vaulted ceiling and turrets at each of the corners. The turrets have special slits through which guns and bows might be fired. The facade of the church is excellent, with fine Venetian carvings. There are a total off fifty cells, arranged on two floors.
Katholikon Monastery is also nearby, at the bottom of a wild and magnificent ravine. As we walk down the path, we pass the little cave of Our Lady of the Bear. Inside is a chapel to our Lady and an enormous black stalagmite in the shape of a bear. We continue down the ravine and after a further 10 minutes arrive at the monastery. A little further down is the famous cave of St John the Hermit. The cave is 150 metres in length and 40 metres in breadth with a height that varies between 3 and 20 metres.
Souda Harbour is the largest harbour in the Mediterranean – This huge natural harbour is the gateway to the sea not just for the Chania area but also for western Crete as a whole. It is one of the largest and safest bays in the Mediterranean, which is why it is used today as a naval base. The town was founded at the end of the 19th century. In the middle Ages it was a pirates’ lair. There are two small islands at the entrance to the bay, Souda and Minoa, which were known by the name of Lefkai in antiquity. According to the myths this was the spot where the Sirens plunged into the sea and drowned themselves in their fury over being defeated by the Muses.
On Souda Island the Venetians built a fine fortress in 1205 to defend the bay against pirate raids and the attacks of their enemies. The skill of their fortifications was such that the Turks were unable to capture the fortress for 70 whole years after they had taken Chania. After its fortification it took the name of Souda, which means trench – a narrow passage. After the island was liberated from the Turks, a marble slab was set up in the place where the Turkish flag had been hoisted in which the inscription states:
THE TURKISH DOMINATION OF CRETE
1669-1913
Lasted 267 years, 7 months and 7 days
YEARS OF ANGUISH
The fortress contains a little Venetian church to St Nicholas; however, all that is left of the monastery today is its sanctuary.
As we leave Souda on the way towards Rethymno, we can make a detour to visit ancient Aptera and the village of Stylos. As we leave the main road, we come to the pretty village of Malaxa, which stands at an altitude of 500 metres with a superb view of the plain of Chania and Souda Bay.
We then reach Aptera. The amazing view from the site more than compensates for the poor road by which it is reached. Aptera stands on top of a hill 200 metres high. At our feet are the blue waters of Souda Bay, with the Akrotiriou headland jutting into the open sea in the distance. To the south, in the other direction, is the mountain scenery of the White Mountains, which for most of the year retain their snow caps that give them their name.
Aptera was built in the 7th century BC. According to myth, its name (wingless) comes from the story of the Sirens, who in their rage over being defeated in a contest of music by the Muses tore the feathers from their wings. Then, white and naked, they drifted down to drowned in the sea, forming the Lefkes (white) islands at the mouth of Souda Bay. On the site there are the remains of the theatre, of a building with inscriptions of a Greek temple to Demeter, and of the large Roman water tanks, which have all survived in excellent condition. There are also more recent buildings, including a Venetian monastery to St John, Statues, inscriptions, pottery and many coins showing the heads of Hera and Artemis have been discovered here. A little way below Aptera is the beautiful village of Stylos. We return to the main road and enter the village of Megala Chorafia, where we turn left, along the road close to the coast.
(Top tip: Ancient sites closed Mondays).
Kalami is a small village and on the hill above the village, Reyuf Pasha built the Icedin fortress, in 1646. During the time of the Cretan Principality the fortress was used as a prison, and since 1970 it has been a naval facility.
Gavalochori is a village with various churches. The 30 wells, famous throughout Crete, from which the village once drew its water, have also survived.
Vamos is the Chief town of the Province of Apokoronos, an administrative and commercial centre. The town takes its name from the Arabic ‘vamos’, meaning pass or crossing. Today, it is a quaint village with traditional houses, steeply raked tree-lined streets and shady squares with enormous plane trees. There are numerous Byzantine churches, including one Formation of St George.
Georgioupoli is a beautiful coastal village on the Armyros plain. It used to be called Almyros or Armyroupoli, but was renamed in honour of Prince George, High Commissioner of Crete. The river Armyros, which rises in Lake Kournas flows into the sea here. There is a popular square with tall eucalyptus trees. The village has an exceptionally good beach 9k in length with fine white sands, which is completely protected from the northwest winds.
Lake Kourna is easy accessible from Georgioupoli, after we have crossed the bridge over the national road 6k on there is an asphalt road that goes to the lake and village of Kournas. This is the only lake on Crete, which collects water from the mountains around it. In antiquity it was known under the name of Korisia, and was the site of a sanctuary dedicated to Korisia Athina. Its modern name is derived from the Arabic word ‘Kourna’, meaning “lake”. Wild buddleia and myrtle form a green garland around the shores of the lake-giving rise to a romantic atmosphere that at the same time has both its wild and gentle aspect. There are two springs in the lake. The first is on the southeast shore, and is only visible in autumn beneath the wild fig trees. Nearby is another spring that the villagers call Mati. The surface of the lake is 25-35m above sea level. In the lakebed, which is 25m below sea level, there is a swallow-hole into which the waters flow and reappear 4k away at the springs of Almirou. It is for this reason that the lake never overflows. South of the lake, in the place called Keratide, there is the cave of Kournas. It was discovered in 1961 and boasts a wealth of rock formations (stalagmites, stalactites). The landscape around the lake is wonderful.
USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS:
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